Holy Moly! In one week I have been to Tahoe, Portland, and back to San Fran. My head is spinning! I feel like I've worn everything from galoshes to coats to shorts! For those of you who live far from your family most year, you can appreciate this. Yesterday we got together for my father's birthday, which was great since we don't usually get to see my family mid-year.
Materials
- Sand paper -80 grit
- Weatherwood Stains' Reclamation stain
- Either a Gravity Sprayer or Brush
- Raw Wood Alder Doors
Directions
1. First and foremost, you need to make sure you sand the wood. When the saw blades cut wood and especially moulding, the cutting action will actually seal the wood shut. You need to sand with 80 grit sand paper to open up all the pores. This is similar to going to get a pedicure and soaking your feet in warm water first. It will give you way better results and be much easier.
2. You can stain either with a sprayer or a brush. To stain with a sprayer, you need gravity sprayer and an air compressor. (Using 2.5 hp air compressor, 8 gallon, 90PSI) Shake stain well. Open nozzle all the way. Apply even passes still making sure to drench the wood. Do not wipe back off!
When using a brush, simply apply the stain, flooding the wood's surface. Do not wipe the stain back off, just allow it to dry naturally.
You can really see how the grain just pops once the door has been stained. The beauty of a reactive stain, instead of your typical pigment based product is that the wood itself turning color due to the reaction between the wood's tannins and the stain. With traditional stains, the pigments are lying on top of the wood to change it's color.
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| The door you just saw stained is the center door in the above photo. The door on the left is cherry stained with the same exact stain. The door on the right is also alder wood, but it has my maintenance oil white topcoat, tutorial coming soon! And a quick video after of the doors and some other projects I've been working on! |
