February 1, 2017

Oak Kitchen Makeover: Strip & Stain


Now that I've kind of told you guys the business side of my invention, I'd like to tell you about a few books I think will help you. I highly recommend reading, "Lean Start Up," by Eric Ries. I would actually read that book one chapter at a time and alternate between that and Steve Jobs biography. The reason I would do this is because the rules you learn from Lean Startup are all the rules Jobs breaks and how it gives him a lot of obstacles. I'm not sure how many of you know this, but Jobs was kicked out of his own company. Of course he makes a come back, but that's mostly because he learns how to follow these rules. 

I would also read, "Nail It Then Scale It." This book is very similar to Lean Startup, but it teaches you in more detail how to avoid the many pitfalls of bad business decisions. I hope this helps all of you as you pursue your dreams. These three books have certainly changed my life. Any ways, I think this is best way I know how to help, "dream catchers," as my husband calls me. Best of luck to you guys!-) 

And here's what we are working on this week: How many of you have dated golden oak, cabinets in your home? Well this is for you!

Materials



Directions


The video above will show you steps 1-4 and you can follow along in the directions below. 



1.] STRIP: If you're refinishing previously finished cabinetry, like these honey gold, white oak cabinets, you'll want to begin by stripping your project to strip the wood. Apply a heavy coat of stripper, you can wrap the stripper and wood in Saran Wrap if you want to expedite the process. 

2.] SCRAPE: When the stripper turns white, you can use a scraper to remove the previous finish. For factory finished cabinets, you're trying to remove 3-7 coats of stain and topcoats! It's very important to get all the way down to raw wood, but do not gouge the wood itself.  Having a few different scrapers with varying shapes and sizes help me. You can even find curved ones for the edges and molding.

3.] REMOVE RESIDUE: Use a clean, cotton cloth and mineral spirit bath. You're trying to remove any stripper residue and the last of any remaining stains. The wood should not have any sheen at this point.

3.] SAND: For cabinetry, you will usually have to give it a light sand to ensure you've gotten all of the stripper out of the nooks and crannies. Sanding is also important with a reactive stain to get an even finish. You want to sand just until the wood looks powdery. 



4.] STAIN: The top was stained with Weatherwood Stain's Reclamation stain. You can brush it on or spray it on, whatever is easier for your project. Both will look the same when finished. Just apply it to the wood and allow it to react, do not wipe it back off. On a hard wood it takes about 30 minutes to dry and when the wood is dry to the touch, it's ready for a topcoat. 
5.] Lighten or Darken: As this point take a look at your dry, stained wood. If you've stained your wood and the color isn't just perfect, we have a way to adjust it. 

Maintenance Oil products that create cool effects, like lightening or darkening stained wood, but unfortunately they do not provide enough protection for cabinetry and are about the same level of wood protection as furniture wax.
  • The White Oil will lighten the stained wood, and create the look of sun-kissed patina.  
  • The Clear Oil darkens and enhance the warmth of the wood tone.



5.] SEAL: To seal the cabinetry use Weatherwood Stain's Varnish and decide how much sheen you want. This is Satin Varnish and it's applied the same way as normal varnish, either brush it on or spray it on. Applying up to three coats for the best protection. Spraying is usually faster and will give such professional looking results. 




If you've got any questions, please let me know. I know this is a big project, but while the project is big the impact it can have is huge! Remember, color results vary depending on the type of wood in your kitchen. But there are a ton of kitchens with golden oak cabinets! lol

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